Al-Tiba9 Contemporary Art

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INTERVIEW | Bonan Li

10 Questions with Bonan Li

Al-Tiba9 Art Magazine ISSUE17 | Featured Artist

Bonan Li is an artist and designer whose work transcends conventional fashion, exploring the profound connections between nature, human consciousness, and the fleeting beauty of existence. Viewing clothing as a contemplative and immersive experience, she creates wearable art that bridges the natural world and the human body, delving into themes of transience, emptiness, and unseen patterns of life. Inspired by Eastern philosophy and aesthetics, Bonan’s designs reflect organic forms and natural cycles of growth, decay, and renewal. Her work evokes primal sensory experiences, inviting reflection on intangible aspects of existence and liminal spaces—cracks, voids, and gaps embodying life’s unspoken intricacies. Bonan’s sustainability commitment shapes her innovative approach. She emphasizes low-waste techniques and eco-friendly materials, harmonizing her art with environmental mindfulness. Her creations have been showcased at venues like the Cristobal Balenciaga Museum, Culture Lab LIC, and Brooklyn Art Cave, engaging audiences on a visceral level.

bonanli.com | @bo_nan_li

Bonan Li - Portrait


ARTIST STATEMENT

Bonan Li bridges nature and human consciousness through wearable art that explores the beauty and complexity of existence. Growing up in China, she embraced cultural values rooted in nature’s cycles, mindfulness, and imperfection. Observing the decay of lotus leaves and the textures of tree bark sparked her focus on the often-overlooked beauty of nature. These elements profoundly shape her sensory-driven designs. Her work delves into themes of transience, void, and introspection. Employing zero-waste cutting techniques and eco-friendly materials, Bonan aligns her creations with sustainable principles. Each piece offers a meditative experience, inviting wearers to connect with the intangible aspects of life. Inspired by Eastern philosophy and Maurice Merleau-Ponty, Bonan’s designs embody life’s transience and interconnectedness. She reveals the “cracks” and “voids” in perception, where the body converges with consciousness. Loose, flowing shapes foster deeper connections between wearers, garments, and their surroundings.

Poem Space, Deadstock Cotton, Silk, 31x25x2 in, 57x33x3 in, 31x41x3 in, 2022 © Bonan Li

Poem Space is a domain that is full of dynamic variability, ambiguity, and energetic flow in a physical place or in our mindset. The abstract form of clothing and the state of connection with the human body is the concept itself. This state of the connection is vague, fluid, and uncertain. This collection focuses on presenting this state to explore the wearer's authentic individuality and the inner-being relationships among all the other lives. The philosophy of Poem Space is influenced by the Zen culture and the "phenomenology of perception" by Maurice Merleau-Ponty. The way clothes abstract the human body can reflect people's inner presence and make them more connected to their surroundings. Poem Space is a prototype for the system of evoking reflective awareness in the post-pandemic era.


AL-TIBA9 ART MAGAZINE ISSUE17

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INTERVIEW

Let's start from the basics. When did you first get interested in fashion design? And when did you decide to turn this passion into a career? 

I first became interested in fashion design during my university years when I chose to major. From a young age, I was deeply fascinated by spatial design and the unique qualities of soft materials. Fashion design felt like a natural path for me because it perfectly combines exploring space with studying materials, allowing me to channel both of these passions into a single creative discipline.

Who or what has influenced your work the most, and how do these influences manifest in your pieces? 

My work is deeply influenced by designers like Hussein Chalayan and Cristóbal Balenciaga, as well as architect Zaha Hadid. Chalayan and Balenciaga inspire me with their profound exploration of space and their ability to express minimalist concepts in a way that feels deeply philosophical, meditative, and forward-looking. Their work demonstrates how simplicity can carry immense depth and futuristic vision. Similarly, Zaha Hadid's architectural designs resonate with me through her use of organic, flowing lines that merge the futuristic with the natural, envisioning a harmonious relationship between humanity and the environment. These influences manifest in my work as a dialogue between form and function, where garments become both a contemplative space and a bridge between the human body and the natural world.

Floating Landscape, Deadstock Polyester, Recycled metal, Cotton, Silk Size, 37x33x3 in, 2024 © Bonan Li

In Floating Landscape, Bonan Li wishes to explore the ambiguous poetics inherent to the world through clothing and cloth-making. For Bonan, clothing is a mediator between nature and the human body. It manifests the natural formation of all things as they are experienced, revealing the primal connection between humans and nature on a sensory level. The meandering, loose structure of the piece invites audiences to open the cracks, gaps, and infinite possibilities of unfolding the inner worlds while awakening the latent experiences rooted in the consciousness of others.

Speaking of your work, you often explore transience, emptiness, and nature themes. How did these themes become central to your practice, and how do you translate them into wearable art?

My deep fascination with nature and cosmic phenomena has been with me since childhood, nurtured by my parents' love for the natural world. Growing up, I was also influenced by traditional Chinese art, particularly the small freehand brushwork of Qi Baishi and classical landscape painting, both of which center on an intimate connection with plants, animals, and the surrounding environment. As I matured, my studies of Eastern philosophies, such as Zen Buddhism and Western thinkers like Deleuze in A Thousand Plateaus, further deepened my understanding of the complex relationships between humans and nature, society and the environment, and individuals within society. These influences have shaped my artistic vision, making transience, emptiness, and nature the core themes of my creative expression. When translating these ideas into wearable art, I focus on crafting garments that evoke a sense of flow, freedom, and organic beauty. Through sculptural forms, open spaces within the designs, and the manipulation of natural, organic materials, I aim to enrich the sensory experience of the wearer, inviting them to connect with the larger, transient rhythms of life.

Your Floating Landscape collection incorporates fluid structures and organic forms. What was the initial inspiration behind this collection? And how did you develop the project?

The Floating Landscape collection was inspired by the ambiguous poetics of nature and the human experience. It reflects my deep connection with the transient beauty of the natural world, rooted in childhood memories of observing the decay of lotus leaves. I was fascinated by their fragile yet enduring forms, which embody themes of impermanence, emptiness, and the cracks within existence. This inspired me to explore the intersections of life and death, presence and void, and how these contrasts shape our world perception. Developing the collection involved translating these abstract concepts into wearable art. I focused on fluid structures and organic forms that mimic the rhythms of nature, using innovative fabric manipulations to evoke the delicate balance between fragility and resilience. Each piece was designed as a bridge betweenthe human body and the natural world, aiming to awaken a primal sensory experience and a contemplative connection with the environment. Through this process, I sought to create garments that not only adorn but also provoke thought and emotion, immersing the wearer in the poetic flux of life.

Floating Landscape, 2024 © Bonan Li

Floating Landscape, 2024 © Bonan Li

The concepts of "cracks" and "voids" are also central to the collection. Could you elaborate on how you interpret these ideas and how they guide your design choices?

The concepts of "cracks" and "voids" in my Floating Landscape collection reflect a deeper philosophical exploration inspired by A Thousand Plateaus and its rhizomatic theory. In this framework, cracks and voids are not merely absences but dynamic spaces of potential, transformation, and connection. They symbolize the in-between—neither fixed nor defined but always in a state of becoming. I interpret cracks as the fissures where new growth emerges, spaces of vulnerability that hold the potential for change. Voids, on the other hand, represent the uncharted, silent spaces that allow reflection, movement, and fluidity. These ideas align with the rhizomatic structure—non-hierarchical, interconnected, and ever-expanding—where everything is connected through multiplicity rather than a single origin. In my design process, these concepts guide choices like creating garments with open, flowing structures and asymmetrical forms that invite exploration. Negative space and organic textures are used to evoke the interplay between emptiness and form, suggesting that absence is as significant as presence. By incorporating fluidity and non-linear patterns, the designs emphasize thetransient and interconnected nature of life, offering the wearer a sense of freedom and immersion in the dynamic flow of existence.

Sustainability is a vital part of your process, from low-waste techniques to collaborating with artisans. How do you balance your artistic vision with environmental responsibility in your designs?

My artistic vision and environmental responsibility are deeply intertwined, complementing each other in my creative process. I approach sustainability by focusing on the journey of creation, allowing the natural properties of the materials to guide the design. By working with the fabric's inherent qualities, I can maximize its potential while minimizing waste. This material-led approach not only enhances the functionality and beauty of the design but also ensures a more mindful use of resources. In shaping spaces and forms, I incorporate a tactile, sensory connection to the body, letting the interaction between material texture and human perception drive the design's evolution. This process often requires the expertise of artisans, whose craftsmanship refines raw materials into expressions of texture and depth. Their work not only brings a human touch to the designs but also aligns with my commitment to sustainability by emphasizing thoughtful, small-scale production. By seamlessly integrating these elements, I aim to create pieces that honor both the material and the environment, proving that sustainable practices can enhance, rather than compromise, artistic expression.

Floating Landscape, 2024 © Bonan Li

In relation to artisans, could you talk about the importance of craftsmanship in your work and how you maintain a human touch amidst a world dominated by mass production?

Craftsmanship is at the heart of my work, bringing depth, authenticity, and a human touch to every piece. In a world driven by mass production, I see artisanship as a way to preserve individuality and cultural heritage. Collaborating with skilled craftspeople allows me to refine raw materials into unique, textured expressions while fostering a slower, more intentional approach to design. This process not only adds emotional value to the pieces but also ensures that each creation carries a story, connecting the maker, wearer, and the art itself.

With sustainability at the heart of your work, how do you choose materials that align with your values, and what message do you hope this sends to the fashion industry?

I choose materials with a focus on their environmental impact, functionality, and potential for transformation. I prioritize organic, recycled, or biodegradable fabrics that minimize harm to the planet, and I let the natural properties of these materials guide the design process. By doing so, I ensure that each piece not only aligns with my aesthetic vision but alsocontributes to reducing waste and promoting mindful consumption. Through this approach, I hope to encourage the fashion industry to view sustainability as an opportunity for innovation and creativity rather than a limitation. My goal is to inspire a shift toward designs that respect the planet while fostering a deeper connection between the maker, wearer, and the environment.

In Between, Denim, Organza Silk Size, 53x35x7 in, 45x38x9 in, 2022 © Bonan Li

In Between is a self-exploration collection inspired by Oriental Philosophy and Cristobal Balenciaga's extraordinary design approaches, which explores the dominant self and recessive self in my identity and aims to relate to women's self-awareness in the post-pandemic era. Through experimenting with draping, patterning, and materiality, this project adapts the concept of "Jian," which can also refer to the artistic interpretation of an empty space into a physical, sensorial experience and develops an initial prototype of patterning methodology that is a minimal waste cutting called "Yin & Yang Patterning," which was inspired by Cristobal Balenciaga's unique construction approaches that explore the negative space between body and garments. This collection is a personal and intimate journey that expresses my awareness of self-identity and also celebrates the minimalist and architectural aesthetic included in Cristobal Balenciaga's masterpieces.

In Between, 2022 © Bonan Li

Your work invites people to connect deeply with the natural world and their inner selves. What role can wearable art play in fostering a more mindful, interconnected experience of the world?

Wearable art serves as a bridge between the human body and the larger rhythms of the natural world, offering a tactile and intimate way to experience interconnectedness. By engaging with organic forms, flowing structures, and materials that resonate with nature, wearable art can awaken a deeper sensory awareness and invite reflection on our place within the environment. It encourages mindfulness by slowing down the act of dressing into a meditative practice, where each piece carries meaning and evokes emotion. In doing so, wearable art transcends functionality, becoming a medium for storytelling and connection. It reminds us of our shared relationship with the earth and fosters a sense of harmony between the inner self and the world around us.

Could you share any upcoming projects or collections you're working on and what concepts or themes you are exploring?

I'm currently working on a new collection inspired by the literary works of Virginia Woolf, particularly her stream-of-consciousness style. This collection will continue to explore fluid, non-linear relationships between individuals, nature, and society, focusing on the intricate interconnections that shape our experiences. Drawing from Woolf's ability to capture fleeting moments and inner thoughts, I aim to translate this sense of fluidity and introspection into wearable art. The designs will feature layered structures, flowing silhouettes, and organic materials that evoke the passage of time and the blurred boundaries between self and environment. Through this collection, I hope to create a sensory experience that mirrors Woolf's narrative style—immersive, reflective, and deeply connected to the rhythms of life.


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