INTERVIEW | Yseult.D
Yseult.D is a multidisciplinary Belgian artist, interviewed by Mohamed Benhadj.
The choice of the medium is primordial for Yseult.D. Photographs come to life. An innovative concept of art to wear is born. Each piece is made in an ultra-limited series and becomes collector's item after a series of 12. The works to wear are all provided with a certificate of authenticity.
How did you start making art?
My background is atypical. During many years I worked in the aquatic field with my parents, who are the precursors of baby swimmers (Depelseneer method). I have always been passionate about photography and cinema. In 2011 I had the opportunity to follow evening courses in digital photography with Pierre Scheys, who mainly taught photographic techniques. At the same time, I worked in Paris with my friend, the painter Marc Aghemio, who helped me sharpen my artistic eye. A year later, with the diploma in my pocket, I flew to Israel, a trip that marked a turning point in my professional life. Back in Belgium, my hairdresser offered me the opportunity to make public the photographs I took during my trip. The Jewish Laic Community Centre in Brussels gave me a "carte blanche" to present my first exhibition, entitled "Once upon a time in Jerusalem" under the name of Yseult D. The enthusiasm of the public then convinced me to devote myself entirely to artistic photography.
Are you passionate about fashion?
I am not passionate about fashion… I am excited about photography and visual art. In my artistic approach, the choice of the medium is essential, and for some photographs, I chose silk, which led to an innovative concept of Art to Wear. Art to Wear is the opposite of fashion; it is timeless. As a photographer and not a stylist, I insist on the fact that silk is only suitable for some of my photographs. In art photography, a work of art cannot exceed 30 prints. I apply the same principle to Art to Wear, so I have chosen to limit myself to 12 silk creations per photo. With this number, the original photo becomes Collector, and only 18 new exclusive silk creations are produced on demand. Each photograph on silk is signed and supplied with a certificate of authenticity.
Why do you use sunset cityscapes so frequently in your work, especially in long dresses?
Light is essential in my work, and I love twilight to capture that special moment when the sunsets. The last glimmers are the most beautiful, and the sky takes on magical colors. Silk lends itself magnificently to this light. Photography on silk has been an artistic and gradual journey: I started with five scarves in 2014, then created tops and finally dresses. The long dress is now my "masterpiece" and the culmination of all this work: the photograph is complete at 360° with only one seam. The poetry of a sunset suits the long dress to perfection!
Where do you get your imagery from? What sources do you use?
I am a solo traveler, and I strive to bring to the forefront moments that may seem irrelevant but are always marked by a beautiful light. I carefully compose my photographs: I only take one picture at a time and only look at my photographs when I come back home a few days or weeks later. I try to touch people and hope to bring a little poetry into this uncertain world. My last exhibition, "Introspection, the photographer and the doubt," a retrospective of five years of travel, perfectly illustrates this poetry of the ordinary. My other favorite themes are street art and contemporary architecture.
Could you tell our readers about your creative process?
To me, a photograph only gets alive when printed on the right medium. Hence the choice of the medium takes an integral part of my artistic process. When I select a photograph for printing, I can spend hours choosing the right paper or any other appropriate medium that would give the best rendering to my image. I am fortunate to work with a professional laboratory in Brussels that offers me valuable advice. The use of fabric as a medium proves to be one axis of my multiple reflections, and silk satin meets my artistic expectations. Eager to work in Europe, I use silk from the region of Como in Italy. Digital printing in high definition, based on eco-responsible inks, is made in a specialized workshop in Spain.
What obstacles do you face in making photographic art and turn it into fashion design?
The most challenging thing at the beginning was to find the right patterns: they had to be comfortable to wear while not distorting my photos. I have worked for years with a stylist in Spain who perfectly understands my concept of Art to Wear. We worked cautiously at the beginning with simple scarves-boleros, and, step by step, the pieces have evolved towards tops and dresses. As I mainly take horizontal photographs, we worked in 2018 on the batwing pattern and then on the long dress pattern, which are closest to my photographic DNA.
Who is your typical client that purchases your collection? What makes your items so unique for collectors?
My clients, which I call "egeries," are active and independent women, interested in art and desire to wear exclusive pieces that will set them apart from mass fashion. My clients are also concerned about ecology and sustainability and value responsible and local production. They all have one thing in common: they are all epicureans, positive people who enjoy life! I feel blessed that my clients understand my artistic approach as a whole. They are as enthusiastic about my photographs on the wall as they are about my pictures on silk.
Are you working on a new project? Tell us more.
Yes, I always have a multitude of ideas and projects! First, when this corona crisis is over, I will go on the road again to take pictures, which remains my main artistic driver. I am also working on a new exhibition in Brussels, focusing on a more urban theme and using projections of photographs. Finally, I am preparing a collective project outside Belgium for this autumn - I cannot tell much about it right now, but I will keep you posted!
Can I visit your studio?
I will welcome you with great pleasure by appointment at the Loft Matyse. This private gallery exhibits my work on a wall and silk permanently. A stone's throw from the Grand Place in Brussels. Manneken Pis is my neighbor. In this period of confinement, I also organize virtual tours via Whatsapp. Hope to see you there soon!