10 Questions with Dairu Ren

Al-Tiba9 Art Magazine ISSUE13 | Featured Artist

Dairu Ren is a talented fashion designer based in New York City. She graduated from the Parsons School of Design and has honed her skills in knitting, crochet, color, and print design, specializing in creating women's apparel. Her designs have been recognized in publications such as CFDA Ruway360 and featured in Boston Fashion Week-SS23 Runway shows. In January 2023, she was awarded the Ones To Watch Award by the Fashion Scout China Film Festival, and in September 2023, she will showcase her creations at London Fashion Week. Dairu was born and raised in China and began learning knitting and crochet at the age of eleven, influenced by her native country. Her work is characterized by the reinvention of traditional handicraft techniques through the use of vibrant colors and three-dimensional textures.

www.dairuren.com | @_r.e.n

ARTIST STATEMENT

In today's day and age, the fashion industry all over the world is being consumed by fast fashion. According to Kate Fletcher, a pioneer in the fields of fashion and sustainability, "Developing a garment with a cultural and emotional connection is also pertinent to the purpose behind slow fashion," and she goes on to say that "consumers will keep an article of clothing for longer than one season if they feel emotionally or culturally connected to the article of clothing."

The answer to today's fast fashion and design is to purchase garments and accessories that have been handmade. Nevertheless, the purpose of this is not merely to address the issue of environmental pollution stemming from the source of the material and the source of the manufacturing pollution. This represents a shift in the way that one thinks. Because of this step, our personal, emotional, or cultural ties have been sparked, and now we are concentrating on spending our time and developing our great craftsmanship. It re-establishes a stronger connection between us and the garments we wear, elevating them above the status of merely a commodity produced by fast fashion factories and sold elsewhere.

Each collection by Dairu Ren tells a unique and fascinating story through meticulously created components. She desires to merge the fine craftsmanship of slow fashion with avant-garde design and to strike a balance between functionality and artistry. Dairu derives most of her inspiration from the production process, and she hopes that people can immerse themselves in this intricate art form. Her knitting is becoming increasingly imaginative and adventurous as she incorporates various materials and traditional yarns. She redefines and emphasizes the ways in which clothing may connect persons and its impact on society, thereby enabling fashion to serve as a conversation starter for complicated social issues.

Grandma’s Horror Stories - Gum, 2022 © Dairu Ren

INTERVIEW

Let's start talking a little about yourself. You left China and moved to the US to follow your dream of becoming a fashion designer. What did motivate you so much to take such a big step?

My unwavering desire to become a fashion designer propelled me to take a significant leap of faith, despite my parents' doubts and objections. However, my grandmother's steadfast support and encouragement gave me the courage to pursue my passion with zeal. I devoured everything I could find about the industry and devoted myself to honing my skills and knowledge. I knew that if I wanted to make a career out of my passion, I had to take bold steps and embrace opportunities beyond my comfort zone.
Moving to the US was a critical turning point in my journey. It presented an opportunity to learn from some of the most exceptional minds in the fashion industry while immersing myself in a new culture and environment. Although it was a daunting decision, I remained determined to do whatever it took to achieve my goals. I am grateful that I did not allow any obstacles to deter me from pursuing my dreams, and the decision to take that significant step has proved to be a life-changing one.

Grandma’s Horror Stories - Fish, 2022 © Dairu Ren

Tell us more about your studies and work experiences. What are the experiences that shaped the designer you are now?

During my time at Parsons School of Design in New York, I spent four years immersing myself in the world of fashion design. Not only did I have the privilege of learning from esteemed professors, but I also had the opportunity to build relationships with other aspiring designers. Additionally, I had the honor of working with two of the most renowned names in the industry, Claudia Li and Thom Browne, and these experiences have proved to be incredibly transformative.
My time with Claudia Li's team provided me with a wealth of knowledge in handling intricate fabrics and mastering the nuances of fine craftsmanship. Working closely with the designer herself, I learned how to blend fluid lines and muted hues to create an elegant and comfortable aesthetic. From pattern-making to runway performances, I was involved in every aspect of the process, gaining valuable insights into the inner workings of the fashion industry.
My work with Thom Browne's team allowed me to challenge traditional design methods and explore the intricacies of high fashion production. Thom Browne's unique and avant-garde design style provided me with the opportunity to experiment with cutting and fabric, creating dramatic effects that left a lasting impression.
Both in school and in the industry, these experiences enabled me to develop a distinctive fashion style that places a strong emphasis on sustainability and environmental consciousness. I believe that attention to meticulous handcrafted details and materials can create a unique visual impact while minimizing the environmental impact of the industry. Overall, these experiences have played an integral role in shaping my perspective as a designer and have contributed significantly to my success in the field of fashion design.

You predominantly work with crochet and knitting. Why did you choose to work with these techniques? Do they give you more freedom of expression compared to textiles only?

Yes, I primarily work with crochet and knitting as my textile techniques of choice. The reason for my preference lies in the freedom these techniques offer me in terms of creative expression. Crochet and knitting enable me to design intricate and complex patterns, as well as add three-dimensional textures that are often unattainable with other textile methods.
One of the most appealing aspects of crochet and knitting is the ability to produce unique and intricate shapes and patterns that add depth and character to my designs. Moreover, I enjoy experimenting with various materials, including unconventional ones, as these techniques allow me to explore endless possibilities creatively.
Crochet and knitting provide me with the flexibility to add unique embellishments and details that enhance the overall design and demonstrate my creativity and individuality. While each textile technique has its own unique characteristics, I have found that crochet and knitting align most with my creative vision and enable me to express myself fully.

How do you design your pieces? What are your influences, and who is your ideal customer?

My designs are rooted in my personal experiences and memories, and they are imbued with a strong cultural connection. My ultimate goal is to establish an emotional bond with my customers, especially those who share similar experiences, through my designs. At the core of my design philosophy lies the principles of slow fashion, which prioritize ethical and sustainable practices in clothing production.
I am committed to using natural, organic, and recycled materials, and I work closely with local artisans and craftsmen to support traditional techniques and crafts. I believe that each piece should be meticulously crafted to ensure it is of the highest quality while also minimizing any negative environmental impacts.
My ideal customers are conscious consumers who place value on quality, craftsmanship, and sustainable development. They understand the importance of investing in durable products that are environmentally friendly and socially responsible. Moreover, they appreciate the artistry and creativity behind each piece and are drawn to the unique and compelling narratives woven into every collection.

Do you have any role models or figures you particularly look up to in style and design?

Yes, I am inspired by certain individuals in the fashion and design world whom I consider role models. One such person is Nong Rak, whose designs never cease to amaze me. I am particularly drawn to her ability to fuse traditional Thai fabrics and embroidery techniques with contemporary and avant-garde elements. Nong Rak's designs are not only visually stunning, but they also convey a strong cultural narrative that celebrates her heritage.
What impresses me most about Nong Rak's work is her unwavering commitment to sustainable and ethical design practices, which aligns with my own values and principles. She places great importance on using eco-friendly materials and supporting local artisans, which speaks to her dedication to creating fashion that positively impacts the environment and society.
Overall, Nong Rak serves as a source of inspiration for me as I continue to navigate my own path in the fashion industry. I admire her innovative approach to design and her unwavering commitment to sustainability and ethical production, both of which have a profound impact on the fashion industry and the world at large.

Have you ever thought about starting your own brand? Or would you like to work for bigger, more established brands? And if so, would you lean more toward street style or luxury fashion?

As Thom Browne's embroidery assistant designer, I am passionate about creating unique and intricate designs that add depth and interest to our collections. Working for the brand has been an invaluable experience that has helped me refine my craft and aesthetic. However, as I continue to grow and learn, I am considering the possibility of starting my own brand in the future.
The skills and techniques that I have learned while working for Thom Browne will serve as a strong foundation for my own creative vision. I am drawn to both street style and luxury fashion markets and believe that there is a growing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly fashion in both. My goal is to create a brand that prioritizes ethical and environmentally conscious practices while offering unique and intricate designs that are both stylish and sustainable, appealing to a broad range of consumers.
While I am open to the possibility of working for established brands in the future, my ultimate goal is to establish my own brand and make my mark in the fashion industry. I am excited about the endless possibilities and look forward to utilizing my experiences and knowledge to create something truly special.

In your statement, you talk extensively about craftsmanship and slow fashion. What advice would you give our readers when choosing garments and other fashion pieces?

As someone who places a high value on craftsmanship and slow fashion, my advice to readers would be to prioritize purchasing items that have been handmade or crafted with great care and attention to detail. These items often carry a more meaningful cultural and emotional connection and are more likely to be cherished and worn for longer periods of time, reducing the negative environmental impact of fast fashion.
When selecting fashion pieces, it's crucial to consider the production process and materials used and choose items that align with your values and beliefs regarding sustainability and ethical fashion. Investing in high-quality, well-crafted pieces establishes a stronger connection with our clothing, elevating them beyond mere commodities.
My ultimate advice is to choose fashion pieces that reflect who you are and what you stand for and that will serve as a source of inspiration and joy for years to come. By prioritizing craftsmanship and slow fashion, we can make a positive impact on the environment and society while also cultivating a deeper appreciation for the clothing we wear.

Do you find that the fashion world is concerned about the environment, or is it just a trend?

The fashion industry has recently shown increasing concern for the environment and sustainability. This shift is not merely a passing trend but rather a recognition among fashion designers, brands, and consumers that traditional practices have significant environmental and social impacts. Sustainable and responsible ways of producing and consuming fashion are needed.
To achieve this, fashion companies are adopting various sustainable practices, including using eco-friendly materials, reducing waste, and improving supply chain transparency and ethical labor practices. Numerous fashion events and organizations also prioritize sustainability, such as the Copenhagen Fashion Summit and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition.
Consumers are also becoming more environmentally conscious and seeking eco-friendly and ethical fashion options. The growing demand for sustainable fashion is driving the industry towards more environmentally friendly practices.
In conclusion, sustainability is now a key focus in the fashion industry, and it is a necessary shift towards responsible and sustainable fashion practices. The industry's adoption of eco-friendly practices is an indication of its commitment to addressing the environmental and social impacts of fashion.

Grandma’s Horror Stories - Umbrella, 2022 © Dairu Ren

What do you hope to accomplish this year, both in terms of career goals and personal life?

This year, I am focusing on both my career and personal life. My main professional goal is to successfully launch my personal fashion brand on an international level, with a planned debut at London Fashion Week in September. I am working diligently to prepare for this launch, ensuring that everything is in place for a successful debut. I am also aiming to participate in more fashion shows next year and collaborate with other artists on editorials and projects.
In terms of my personal life, I am prioritizing self-care and maintaining a healthy work-life balance. While I am fully dedicated to my work, I recognize the importance of taking time for myself and spending time with loved ones. This year, I plan to travel more for both work and personal reasons and continue pursuing hobbies and activities that bring me joy and fulfillment. My ultimate goal is to achieve success in my career while leading a balanced and fulfilling personal life.

Finally, are there any shows or publications where our readers can find your work?

My designs have received significant recognition and exposure, having been featured in various publications, including CFDA Runway360, ELLE, and Harper's Bazaar. In addition, my designs were showcased at the Boston Fashion Week-SS23 Runway shows. I am thrilled to have been awarded the Ones To Watch Award by the Fashion Scout China Film Festival in January 2023, and I am eagerly preparing to present my designs at London Fashion Week in September 2023. If you would like to see more of my work, please feel free to visit my website.

Artist’s Talk

Al-Tiba9 Interviews is a promotional platform for artists to articulate their vision and engage them with our diverse readership through a published art dialogue. The artists are interviewed by Mohamed Benhadj, the founder & curator of Al-Tiba9, to highlight their artistic careers and introduce them to the international contemporary art scene across our vast network of museums, galleries, art professionals, art dealers, collectors, and art lovers across the globe.

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