10 Questions with Kangqi Zou

Kangqi Zou is a New York-based fashion designer and an esteemed alumna of Parsons School of Design. Raised in an industrial setting in China, her work is recognized for its unique fusion of cultural heritage and contemporary aesthetics, focusing on themes of identity, femininity, and societal roles. Zou's background significantly influences her design approach, blending the ruggedness of industrial elements with the refinement of high fashion to create garments that invite reflection and dialogue. She subtly challenges and redefines fashion norms through her commitment to feminist principles. Her designs engage in a thoughtful dialogue between form and concept, exploring the nuances of identity and societal roles. Zou's design approach combines aesthetic finesse with cultural commentary, fostering a nuanced discourse on femininity. Each collection serves as a canvas, inviting reflection and challenging traditional perceptions, allowing wearers to elegantly express complex identities. This engagement with fashion transforms her pieces into statements of empowerment and repositions of traditional narratives within a contemporary context.

kangqizou.com

ARTIST STATEMENT

Kangqi Zou's fashion design is a nuanced exploration of identity and culture, merging robust industrial influences from her upbringing in China with the elegance of contemporary fashion. Her creative process begins with a deep engagement with texture, which serves as the foundation of her designs.
She then crafts these textures into distinctive silhouettes, carefully selecting colors that enhance the narrative and emotional resonance of each piece.

In her "Monkey See, Monkey Do" collection, Zou explores the abstract concept of fashion's class distinctions by integrating the solidity of industrial materials with the poised aesthetics of 1950s fashion poses. This juxtaposition creates a compelling dialogue between high fashion and industrial elements, challenging traditional norms and encouraging viewers to reconsider societal roles and identity.

Zou's designs are characterized by their integration of diverse elements, creating a harmonious blend of the practical and the artistic. Her work consistently aims to bridge the gap between functionality and artistic expression, using fashion as a medium to convey complex cultural narratives and personal stories. Through her innovative approach, Zou seeks to inspire a deeper understanding and appreciation of the intricate relationships between fashion, identity, and society, encouraging a reevaluation of how fashion reflects and shapes the multifaceted nature of human experience.

Monkey see, Monkey do, collection, 2023 © Kangqi Zou

INTERVIEW

Please tell us a bit about yourself. Who are you, and how did you first become interested in fashion design?

I am Kangqi Zou, a fashion designer based in New York with a rich background shaped by my early experiences in an industrial environment in China. This unique upbringing fostered my fascination with the transformative power of fashion as a form of expression and communication.
My initial interest in fashion design sparked during my childhood, surrounded by the robust structures and mechanical beauty of my environment. I was captivated by the way materials could be manipulated and transformed into something entirely different, which mirrored the functional yet visually compelling nature of industrial design.
This curiosity grew as I explored the world of fashion more deeply, particularly when I moved to New York to study at Parsons School of Design. The city's vibrant fashion scene and its diverse cultural tapestry provided a fertile ground for nurturing my creative instincts and pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion. Here, I began to intertwine my cultural heritage with the pulsating, innovative energy of the cosmopolitan aesthetic, leading me to develop a design philosophy that values both form and function, blending the practical with the spectacular.

Can you tell us about your early experiences growing up in China and how they have influenced your work as a fashion designer?

Growing up in an industrial area in China, surrounded by factories and workers, profoundly shaped my perspective and methodology as a fashion designer. The environment was dominated by the robust, no-nonsense attire of workers, which was functional and designed for durability. This early exposure to utilitarian chic influenced my appreciation for practical designs that cater to the demands of daily life.
The workers' garments, characterized by simple, strong lines and durable materials, introduced me to the importance of functionality in clothing. These outfits, designed for utility, were my first lessons in how form follows function, a principle that deeply influences my approach to fashion. Observing the workers, predominantly in menswear, also stirred my interest in blending traditionally masculine elements with high-fashion aesthetics, challenging and redefining gender norms in fashion. This blend of industrial pragmatism with artistic expression allows my designs to transcend traditional gender boundaries, introducing strength and resilience into women's fashion and elegance into men's. This approach not only honors my industrial heritage but also mirrors modern views on gender fluidity, making my collections relevant to a contemporary audience seeking versatility and inclusivity.
My work explores the interplay between rugged industrial influences and the polished sophistication of modern fashion, aiming to create garments that are visually striking, embody a narrative of empowerment, durability, and adaptability, reflecting both my roots and my evolution as a designer.

How did your education at Parsons School of Design shape your approach to fashion, and what key lessons have you carried into your professional career?

My education at Parsons School of Design was pivotal in shaping my approach to fashion, offering a foundation that was both technically rigorous and creatively liberating. At Parsons, I was immersed in an environment that prioritized innovation and pushed the boundaries of traditional fashion design. This exposure to a blend of global perspectives and cutting-edge industry practices helped refine my aesthetic and deepen my understanding of fashion as a form of cultural and personal expression. One of the key lessons I learned at Parsons was the importance of sustainability in design. The faculty emphasized eco-friendly practices, encouraging us to think critically about material sourcing, production processes, and the lifecycle of fashion products. This has instilled in me a commitment to sustainability that influences every aspect of my work, from choosing fabrics to final garment construction.
Another significant lesson was the value of interdisciplinary collaboration. Working alongside peers from various backgrounds, I learned how integrating diverse skills and perspectives can lead to more innovative outcomes. This has encouraged me to collaborate broadly in my professional career, engaging with artists, technologists, and designers from different fields to enrich my collections. Moreover, Parsons taught me the power of storytelling through fashion. I learned to weave narratives into my collections, using them to communicate more profound messages about identity, society, and history. This storytelling approach has become a hallmark of my work, helping to create compelling, thought-provoking pieces that resonate with audiences.

Your work often explores themes of identity, femininity, and societal roles. Can you elaborate on how you translate these abstract concepts into tangible designs?

Translating abstract concepts like identity, femininity, and societal roles into tangible designs is a core part of my creative process, and it involves a multi-layered approach to both concept development and design execution.
Firstly, the exploration of these themes begins with extensive research and personal reflection. For identity and femininity, I delve into historical, cultural, and social texts to understand different perspectives and interpretations. This research helps in forming a narrative or a central theme for a collection. For instance, when exploring femininity, I might focus on the evolution of women's roles through different eras, examining how these shifts influence modern perceptions of strength and vulnerability. The translation of these concepts into tangible designs involves reinterpreting traditional motifs and symbols in novel ways. For example, I might take classic elements traditionally associated with femininity, such as ruffles or floral patterns, and reinterpret them through a lens of strength and modernity, perhaps by altering their forms to include geometric shapes or unconventional materials. This juxtaposition challenges and expands the viewer's understanding of femininity.
Societal roles are similarly integrated into designs by using fashion as a commentary medium. This might involve creating pieces that play with the expected norms of gender-specific attire, such as combining masculine tailoring with delicate fabrics, thereby questioning and blurring the lines between established gender roles in clothing. Furthermore, I often utilize innovative textile techniques and cutting-edge technology to materialize these concepts. Techniques like digital printing, laser cutting, and 3D printing allow me to create complex, intricate designs that would be impossible with traditional methods. This technological approach not only enhances the aesthetic appeal but also underscores the message of modernity and progress.

The "Monkey See, Monkey Do" collection integrates industrial materials with 1950s fashion aesthetics. What inspired this particular juxtaposition, and what message were you hoping to convey?

The inspiration behind the juxtaposition of industrial materials with 1950s fashion aesthetics in the "Monkey See, Monkey Do" collection stems from my desire to explore the complex interplay between conformity and individuality in society. The 1950s represented an era of both strict societal norms and burgeoning subcultures that challenged those norms, making it a perfect backdrop to explore these themes. By integrating industrial materials, which symbolize rugged functionality and strength, with the refined, elegant silhouettes of 1950s fashion, the collection aims to highlight the contrast between society's expectations and individual expression. This contrast serves as a metaphor for the pressures of societal conformity—how we are molded by cultural norms, much like how materials are industrially shaped and fashioned—and the human desire to break free from these constraints and express personal identity.
The message I hoped to convey through this collection is one of empowerment and resistance. It encourages wearers and viewers to question and challenge the roles and identities that society assigns to them. The collection's blending of harsh, industrial elements with graceful, flowing forms symbolizes the possibility of finding harmony and balance between one's external influences and internal sense of self. It's a call to recognize and embrace the multifaceted nature of personal identity, encouraging a deeper exploration of who we are beneath the roles we play in society.

Feminism plays a significant role in your design philosophy. How do you incorporate feminist principles into your collections, and why is this important to you?

Feminism profoundly shapes my design philosophy, emphasizing empowerment. By using materials and silhouettes that subvert conventional expectations, my designs encourage wearers to question and redefine femininity and identity.
For instance, in my collections, I transform safety helmets, a symbol of hard labor typically associated with masculinity, using luxurious velvet materials that are often linked to femininity. This juxtaposition not only challenges traditional gender associations with certain materials but also showcases the possibilities of blending strength with elegance. Additionally, I employ large, bold silhouettes in skirts and dresses, using block constructions that add an architectural, almost monumental quality to the garments. These designs make a statement about presence and space – traditionally, large and imposing designs are reserved for menswear, but I incorporate these elements into womenswear to empower the wearer, making a clear statement about occupying space assertively.
This design philosophy is rooted in my commitment to feminism, aiming to empower individuals by breaking down the barriers of traditional gender expectations. encouraging wearers to explore and assert their identities in new and unconventional ways. Through my collections, I aim to contribute to the discourse on gender in fashion, pushing for a more inclusive and diverse understanding of what fashion can represent.

Can you discuss the process of conceptualizing a new collection? What are the key steps you take from initial inspiration to final execution?

Conceptualizing a new collection starts with a spark of inspiration, often drawn from art, culture, or personal experiences. For instance, the "Monkey See, Monkey Do" collection was inspired by themes of cultural mimicry and societal norms. Following the initial inspiration, I engage in extensive research, creating mood boards to visualize the collection's aesthetic and refine its themes into cohesive design concepts, influencing the choice of materials, colors, and silhouettes.
Material selection is crucial as it supports the narrative. For example, incorporating unconventional elements like 3d printed helmets with velvet explores traditional norms and challenges them. Detailed sketches follow, leading to the creation of a prototype where design concepts are brought to life through tailoring and craftsmanship. This phase is vital for adjusting the silhouette and ensuring the piece embodies the intended message. Feedback from trusted advisors and industry peers is then solicited to refine the garment, focusing on its aesthetic appeal and thematic expression. The creation culminates in a single piece that encapsulates the collection's narrative, typically showcased in an exclusive setting like a fashion show or an art exhibit.

How do you view the role of fashion in reflecting and shaping societal narratives and personal identities?

Fashion profoundly influences societal narratives and personal identities, acting as a cultural barometer that captures and reflects the essence of the times. It can underscore significant societal shifts or highlight emerging subcultures, providing a platform for individual and collective expression.
On an individual level, fashion is a vital tool for self-expression, allowing people to communicate aspects of their personality and beliefs without words. The choices people make in their attire enable them to assert their uniqueness or challenge societal norms, shaping their personal identity in relation to the broader cultural landscape. Additionally, fashion can challenge traditional norms and provoke discussions about cultural expectations. For example, integrating unexpected materials and designs that blur the lines between conventional gender-specific attire invites wearers and observers to reconsider their perceptions of identity and role in society.
In this way, fashion is not just about trends or aesthetics; it's about making statements and fostering dialogue. It enables individuals to reflect on their inner selves while also engaging with and influencing the cultural and social narratives that define our world. Through these interactions, fashion becomes a dynamic tool for personal and societal exploration and expression.

In what ways do you address environmental sustainability in your design process and material choices?

In my design process, environmental sustainability is an important consideration that I actively integrate through specific techniques and material choices. One of the primary methods I employ is the zero-waste cut method during the pattern-making stage. This approach involves designing patterns that maximize fabric use and minimize offcuts, effectively reducing waste right from the inception of each garment.
Additionally, I make a concerted effort to use leftover or deadstock fabrics whenever possible. These materials are often remnants from other fashion productions that would otherwise be discarded. By incorporating these leftovers into my collections, I not only give new life to these fabrics but also help reduce the demand for new textiles, which in turn decreases the environmental impact associated with raw material production, processing, and dyeing.
These practices reflect my commitment to sustainability and demonstrate how designers can contribute to a more environmentally friendly fashion industry. By choosing zero-waste techniques and repurposing existing materials, I aim to create beautiful, high-quality garments that are also environmentally conscious, aligning my creative process with the urgent need for sustainability in the fashion industry.

Looking forward, how do you envision your work evolving, and what new themes or concepts are you excited to explore in your future collections?

Looking forward, I see my work continuing to evolve in ways that deepen the integration of cultural narratives and innovative design techniques. I am particularly excited to explore themes around the fluidity of identity and the intersection of technology with traditional craftsmanship. These concepts open new avenues for expressing complex ideas through fashion, allowing for even more dynamic and thought-provoking collections.
Additionally, I plan to delve into the impacts of globalization on traditional cultures, examining how modern influences reshape traditional attire and cultural symbols. This exploration aims to highlight the delicate balance between preservation and evolution, offering a fresh perspective on cultural heritage in a globalized context.
As technology advances, I am also keen to incorporate more digital and sustainable technologies into my design process, experimenting with materials and methods that reduce environmental impact while pushing the boundaries of what is possible in fashion design. This blend of tradition with innovation will not only define the future direction of my collections but also reflect my commitment to creating fashion that is both forward-thinking and respectful of our heritage.

Artist’s Talk

Al-Tiba9 Interviews is a promotional platform for artists to articulate their vision and engage them with our diverse readership through a published art dialogue. The artists are interviewed by Mohamed Benhadj, the founder & curator of Al-Tiba9, to highlight their artistic careers and introduce them to the international contemporary art scene across our vast network of museums, galleries, art professionals, art dealers, collectors, and art lovers across the globe.

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