10 Questions with Rosie Zirou Zhang

Rosie Zirou Zhang is a fashion and textile designer based in New York City, with a strong focus on womenswear and weaving. Central to her creative process is the harmonious interplay of textures and colors, a signature element evident throughout her work. Notably, Zhang was selected as the highest status "black sheep" by Not Just a Label, the world's largest digital platform for showcasing & retailing independent luxury fashion designers. Her unique approach involves crafting her own fabrics and exploring the communication between fashion and fine art. Zhang earned her MDes in Fashion, Body, and Garment from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, further enriching her expertise and creative vision.

rosiezhang.com | @wkdwkdbr

ARTIST STATEMENT

Rosie Zirou Zhang is deeply passionate about crafting garments and textiles through hands-on techniques. Whether it's sewing, knitting, weaving, or dyeing, she finds immense joy in the process of bringing fabrics to life. With a keen interest in textiles, Rosie takes pleasure in blending various textures and exploring their interplay when draped on the body. Through the use of vibrant colors, she assembles textiles and garments that evoke a playful and sentimental mood, encouraging viewers to interpret them in their own unique way.

Rosie Zirou Zhang's recent collection revolves around the dynamic relationship between color and textiles, drawing inspiration from the natural splendor of butterflies. Employing a range of fiber techniques, she breathes life into fabric scraps, creating richly colored textile designs. From intricately mimicking microscopic wing scales to crafting woven interpretations of delicate wings, each piece tells a story through the mesmerizing aesthetics of butterflies.

The narrative aspect of her work resonates deeply with Rosie, and she relishes the process of creating each fabric piece. By weaving together threads and narratives, she aims to capture the beauty of butterflies, inviting viewers to share in the wonder of her textile tales.

Folded Butterfly, double weave, warp painting, 30x60 inches each, 2023 © Rosie Zirou Zhang

INTERVIEW

Let's start from the basics. What initially sparked your interest in fashion and textile design?

I think it began with my love of making things with my hands. When I was a child, I loved making handmade gifts for my parents. And like many children who love Disney animation, I longed for the dresses that the Disney princesses wore. I loved the beautiful colors and the way the big hemlines swung with the princesses' movements, and I had the idea that I wanted to be a fashion designer. Growing up, I loved making soft textiles that made me feel safe and relaxed. I also enjoyed putting my textiles on the body and seeing how they perform on the body.

Can you share with our readers your academic background and how your studies have influenced your artistic journey?

I completed my undergraduate degree in Fashion Design at Hongik University in South Korea, followed by earning my MFA at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. During my time at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, I was encouraged to explore classes outside of my major, which I found invaluable. Taking courses in the Fiber department allowed me to integrate techniques from different disciplines into my work. This interdisciplinary approach significantly influenced my artistic evolution. While my undergraduate studies primarily focused on garment construction, I've since developed a passion for creating my own fabrics. This shift has been instrumental in shaping my stylistic progression.

You were recently selected as the highest-status "black sheep" by Not Just a Label. How has this recognition influenced your approach to fashion design and your career?

I am delighted to receive the Black Sheep recognition from Not Just a Label, the highest accolade, particularly given the immense talent among my fellow fashion designers. This recognition serves as a significant motivation for me to delve deeper into my favorite techniques, materials, and concepts, fostering creativity in my work. Additionally, Not Just a Label has provided me with an opportunity to reach a broader audience. It has facilitated new collaborations and expanded the platform for showcasing my designs, which I'm incredibly grateful for.

Let's now talk about your work. Your recent collection revolves around the dynamic relationship between color and textiles, drawing inspiration from the natural splendor of butterflies. What led you to this theme, and how do you integrate it into your designs?

My fascination with butterflies ignited during my weaving series 'WINGS'. While observing butterflies, I yearn to examine their wings closely. Thus, I magnify segments of their wings and paint them onto the warp, resulting in the weaving of large butterfly wings, albeit with slight blurring. This artistic fusion aimed to capture the essence of butterflies through weaving.
Since then, my exploration of butterflies has deepened, encompassing every aspect of their existence. Expanding on this theme, I introduced the Butterfly Collection II a year later. Utilizing fabric pieces from WINGS, I crafted a long skirt, preserving its integrity akin to framed artwork. By directly sewing them onto the skirt and enhancing them with boning, I invited viewers to appreciate the intricate patterns up close.

Could you tell us more about your creative process and how you blend different elements and materials in your designs?

When I have inspiration, whether it's about the use of materials or the combination of colors, I immediately create a sample piece of fabric. I am passionate about collecting samples. Then I'll put different samples together and observe the harmony between them. When blending different elements and materials in my designs, I consider factors such as texture, color, pattern, and functionality to create cohesive and visually striking pieces.
I often experiment with mixing contrasting materials: In the Butterfly Collection II, I paired a weaving piece featuring large butterfly wing patterns with fabric made from recycled yarn and small pieces of scrap fabric. They are both made of yarn using different techniques, creating a contrast between large and small patterns. In the Butterfly Collection I, I used stiff boning to support soft knitting fabric, creating geometric patterns reminiscent of butterfly wings.

Glitch Echo, echo weave, 26x92 inches, 2022 © Rosie Zirou Zhang

Glitch Echo, echo weave, 2022 © Rosie Zirou Zhang

One of the most striking aspects of your work is crafting your fabrics. Could you share some insights into your techniques and the process of creating your textiles?

When crafting my fabrics, I often start with a conceptual inspiration and select the type of fabric that best complements it. For example, in my Butterfly Collection I, I was inspired by the delicacy and softness of butterfly wings, which led me to explore the warmth and texture of yarns and knitting. I chose knitting as the primary technique to represent butterflies, allowing me to experiment with colors and observe their interactions and proportions. Drawing from the colors and geometric patterns of butterfly wings, I meticulously extracted hues and shapes to integrate into each look. This process of collaging and adapting butterfly wing patterns onto the human form creates a unique fusion of knitting with natural motifs, resulting in distinctive and visually captivating textiles.

Sustainability is becoming increasingly important in the fashion industry. How do you incorporate sustainable practices into your work, particularly regarding materials and production processes?

As a fashion designer, I address the challenge of excess fabric accumulation by integrating sustainable practices into my work. I repurpose leftover materials and recycle studio remnants, employing techniques like recycling yarn, dyeing muslin for unique prints, and hand-weaving to create original textiles without the need for new purchases. This approach not only reduces fabric stockpiles but also inspires me to continually explore new avenues for sustainability.

Wings, hand weaving, warp painting, 2022 © Rosie Zirou Zhang

Could you share some of the sustainable practices you have implemented in your recent projects, and how do you envision sustainability playing a role in the future of fashion?

In the Butterfly Collection II, I repurpose leftover yarn and scrap fabric using the water-soluble stabilizer method, creating sustainable textiles. I gather and cut the materials into 1-inch pieces, sandwich them between stabilizers, stitch them together, and dissolve the stabilizer in water, resulting in unique fabrics. This commitment to waste reduction inspires my creativity.
Fashion designers explore sustainable materials, brands promote resale and take-back programs, and consumers prioritize quality, driving a shift toward sustainability in the industry. This encourages fashion companies to adopt eco-friendly practices. Overall, I believe sustainability represents a fundamental change in fashion towards responsibility and environmental consciousness.

Speaking of the future, what projects or directions are you excited to explore in your fashion and textile designs?

I'm eager to incorporate Jacquard into my work. I've primarily used the floor loom so far, I love the hand-dyed yarn and the vitality of hand weaving. However, I aspire to employ the Jacquard loom to craft more elaborate patterns and expand the potential of my design. I would love to observe how Jacquard's digital attributes contrast with my handmade fabrics and explore how I can leverage these digital features to express the butterflies.

Lastly, what projects or series are you currently working on? Are there any upcoming shows or exhibitions you want to share with our readers?

I'm currently immersed in preparations for Helsinki Virtual Fashion Week, which begins on July 15th. This entirely online event marks my first participation in a virtual fashion week, and I'm thrilled at the prospect of showcasing my designs in 3D and virtual environments. The digital format of the Helsinki fashion show particularly resonates with me because it emphasizes sustainability, eliminating physical production and waste, which aligns perfectly with my values.

Artist’s Talk

Al-Tiba9 Interviews is a promotional platform for artists to articulate their vision and engage them with our diverse readership through a published art dialogue. The artists are interviewed by Mohamed Benhadj, the founder & curator of Al-Tiba9, to highlight their artistic careers and introduce them to the international contemporary art scene across our vast network of museums, galleries, art professionals, art dealers, collectors, and art lovers across the globe.

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