10 Questions with Zhiling Chen

Zhiling Chen is a New York-based lingerie designer. Born in Suzhou, China, she came to the United States at the age of 15. During her study at the Fashion Institute of Technology, her works were featured multiple times in different exhibitions and magazines. After graduating with a BFA degree in Fashion Design, she joined Araks, a New York-based swimwear and lingerie designer brand as a lingerie designer.

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ARTIST STATEMENT

“I describe my work as a combination of sensuality and rationality by using lines, shapes, blocks of color, and just the right amount of embellishments. I believe that underwear is not just something "under the fashion". It can also be changeable, interesting, and advanced. I hope that when people go home, they will not take off their bras in relief but proudly take them off outerwear, and confidently appreciate their body in underwear. Growing up in China, the family and social environment at that time made me feel that the discussion of sex and underwear was a taboo private topic. This is I grow this rebellious spirit in me, using art and creation to express my thoughts freely and let them eternal existences.” - Zhiling Chen

INTERVIEW

Let's start talking a little about yourself. You left China at an early age to follow your dream of becoming a fashion designer. What motivated you so much to take such a big step?

My passion for fashion design is the driving force behind everything I do. I believe everyone will have a consistent urge and excitement about one thing, and that thing is fashion design.
Also, my parents made it possible for me to pursue my education in a foreign country. They are typical of traditional Chinese parents who urged me to seek a profession in medicine or engineering. Still, I always intended to study art and design in order to work in the design sector. After graduating from junior high school, they supported me to leave China to pursue a "more diversified and better" education in another country. I decided in secret to pursuing my passion for fashion design in college.

When did you realize you wanted to be a fashion designer? And how did you get interested in lingerie in particular?

When I was a child, my grandmother and I would always sit on the balcony. She would knit a sweater while listening to the radio, and occasionally she would create a cheongsam using an old sewing machine stored in the room's corner. This is the first time I recall thinking about clothes and how they should appear, and it was likely around this time that I became interested in fashion design.
On my nineteenth birthday, a friend gifted me a mesh bodysuit with blue embroidered lace; it was my first "not-everyday" piece of lingerie. This had a profound effect on me. Growing up in China, my family and social environment made me believe that discussing the style and wearing of underclothes is a taboo private topic. This lingerie item sparked my desire to learn more about lingerie and gave me the motivation to become a lingerie designer.

Do you think working with lingerie gives you more or less freedom of expression compared to fashion design only?

As a designer, I believe that fashion is a way to express one's inner ideas and feelings, and I believe that lingerie allows me to do so more effectively than other forms of fashion design. In addition, lingerie gives me the creative flexibility to design anything I want, even if there is a limited selection of fabrics to choose from.

Your creations are delicate yet sensual at the same time. How do you design your pieces? What are your influences, and who is your ideal customer?

First, I will choose a pretty broad design theme, and then, after extensive investigation, I will gradually narrow it down. Then, I will choose the color and material and begin drawing design concepts. When the idea is fully developed, I will first create a grey fabric sample, then test it on and make modifications, and then begin to create it with actual fabric and test it on. It can take anywhere from a few days to several months to complete the entire procedure.
My inspiration comes from a number of sources, most of which are connected to my daily life. For instance, I produced the "Fencing 101" series because I was a member of my high school's fencing team, and "Break" was inspired by my personal experiences during the pandemic. Also, the aesthetics of movies have always been a significant source of inspiration for me.
My ideal consumers are women my age who are open to trying out new lingerie styles and care more about the quality of the garments they purchase than the number.

In your statement, you say, "I hope that when people go home, they will not take off their bras in relief, but proudly take them off outerwear, confidently appreciating their bodies in underwear". Why do you think women feel so restricted by underwear? And as a designer, what would you like to do to change this?

First, I believe there is a social expectation that women should always wear lingerie, which becomes more of a mental restriction than a physical one. Although more and more women are beginning to support or go out without underwear or with only underwire bras, it is generally accepted that women should wear underwear every day. I believe it would be impossible to modify this type of social expectation in a short amount of time. Therefore I wish that women are free to choose the lingerie that makes them feel comfortable and expresses their individuality without having to alter public expectations.
Second, occasionally the fabric and style of the lingerie can be uncomfortable and constricting for women. Some fabrics make lingerie so constrictive or tight that women cannot wait to take it off at home. Now, my works pay more attention to comfort and wearability by reducing the lines, emphasizing the expression of color, and favoring the use of fabrics made from natural fibers.

Your statement also recalls body positivity and confidence in our own skin (and underwear). How important is it for you as a designer to create pieces that can empower whoever wears them?

As a fashion designer, I believe it is my responsibility to be able to communicate my ideas to whoever wears them. As previously said, I became interested in lingerie design after receiving lingerie as a present from a friend. I feel the message sent by the lingerie designer, and I believe everyone else does as well. I wish to impart my positive energy and message to whoever wears my designs and empower them.

Have you ever thought about starting your own brand? Or would you like to work for bigger, more established brands?

Yes, I believe it is every designer's dream to launch their own brand. I still require a few years before launching my own brand. I am interested in working for larger, more established businesses in order to expand my knowledge of diverse design concepts and cultures. Nonetheless, if I were to launch my own brand, it wouldn't be a lingerie-only label but rather a concept store carrying my lingerie.

Recently, we have been witnessing growing attention toward sustainable fashion. Where do you stand in this regard? Do you embrace this movement, or is it just greenwashing?

Sustainability is currently a major fashion trend. I currently work for a sustainable lingerie manufacturer. However, I still believe there is a great deal of waste during the design and production phases, and it is difficult to avoid many of them. There is still a long way to go before fashion really becomes sustainable. The fashion industry is a customer-driven market, and all brands are merely forecasting what consumers like. I hope that people are not just simply repeating phrases but are actually embracing this idea.

What do you hope to accomplish this year, both in career goals and personal life?

I have accomplished something thus far, and I am really proud of myself for doing so. My goals for this year include continuing the successful work I've been doing and producing further pieces and collections. Personally, I want to have more life experiences, help more people, gain a better understanding of myself, and live a better life overall.

Finally, any shows or publications where our readers can find your work?

For examples of my personal work, readers can look at the August issue of "The Best of Intima" Magazine in 2021 or the June issue of Rebel Magazine AF in 2021. Alternatively, they can go to Araks or the Araks website, which is the lingerie brand for which I am presently working.

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